Found a New Ride on Today's Hike

Several old cars can still be found on the Lakeshore Trail on the North Shore of Fontana Lake.  Why were they left  behind?  Read on to find out.

Today's hike in the Smokies began and ended at Fontana Dam.  It was raining fairly hard when we started on the Appalachian Trail where it enters the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

The 3.7 mile to the Lost Cove trail took us steeply up Shuckstack Mountain and the old fire lookout tower on the summit.   The tower was built in 1934, rising 60 feet to give a 360 degree view of the Smokies and Nantahala National Forest, as well as Fontana Dam and Lake.  It rained off and on on the way up to the tower, but it did clear some for cloudy views of the surrounding mountains from the tower.  Fontana Lake and the dam are visible in this picture.

A little past the side trail to the tower, the Lost Cove Trail turns off the AT on the right.  This short trail (2.7 miles) follows Lost Cove Creek and features several stream crossings.  The upper end of the trail is steep, and with today's rain, we slipped and slid down the muddy trail.  The first stream crossings were rock-hops, but on the lower part of the trail we waded across the last five crossings.

 

Lost Cove Trail ends at the Lakeshore Trail, a 35 mile trail that follows the North Shore of Fontana Lake.  Parts of the Lakeshore Trail follow old NC Highway 288 which followed the Little Tennessee River between Bryson City and Deals Gap.  Today much of this road lies at the bottom of Fontana Lake.  Prior to 1944 and the construction of the dam, many people lived on what is today called the North Shore.  Several towns and homesteads dotted the landscape.

Although the trail sign (above right) is hard to read, we hiked 5.2 miles of the Lakeshore Trail to the parking area near the dam.  It is along this section you will see several abandoned vehicles left behind by people who moved, or were removed, from the area because of the dam and lake.

We had some views of the lake through the trees as we hiked along, and the morning rain gave way to afternoon sunshine.

So now to answer the question posed in the caption of the picture at the beginning of this post.  Why did the people leave so many cars behind when they left the area in the 1940s?  One would think these cars had value and would be useful in resettled areas.  These were wartime years, and rationing during World War II included tires.  Rubber was needed for the war effort.  So cars in otherwise good running condition may not have had tires to drive them away.  By the time tires would have been available after the war, the lake had cut off road access and the people had moved away.  So, here they sit along the Lakeshore Trail, a reminder of the past.

Tale of the tape: 12.5 miles; all "new" trail miles with 3,000 feet elevation gain.

Total miles of trails in the Smokies to date: 202.8 (1/4 the way!!)

Trail Math: When does 15.3 = 3.6?

Many trails in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park can only be reached by hiking to them on other trails.  Such is the case with the Bone Valley Trail.  It is a short trail - only 1.8 miles one way - that follows Bone Valley Creek ending at the Hall Cabin, one of several historic structures maintained by the Park Service.  In fact, the Hall Cabin is the most remote maintained structure in the park.  In order to get to the Bone Valley trailhead, one must hike 6 miles from the boat landing at Hazel Creek on the Hazel Creek Trail.

Before I explain the math equation in the title, here are a few pictures and notes from the hike a group of us did on August 13.

We met at the Fontana Village Marina for our boat shuttle across the lake to the Hazel Creek landing. The morning was cool and mist rose from the surface of the lake.

Early morning on Fontana Lake

Morning clouds and mist.

We began our hike at Ollie Cove on a short spur trail (0.3 miles) and 0.7 miles on the Lakeshore Trail to Hazel Creek.  This area of Fontana Lake's North Shore was the site of the town of Proctor.  It began as a farming settlement, and by the early 1900s, it was a booming lumber mill.  Once the timber was cut, the mill was shut down and the area reverted back to a faming community.  With the construction of the Fontana Dam and as the lake filled, communities like Proctor on the north shore were cut off from roads of lost under the rising waters.  Read more about Proctor here.

As the name implies, the Hazel Creek Trail follows Hazel Creek upstream for about 12 miles.  We hiked 5.3 miles to the junction with the Bone Valley Trail.  Hazel Creek is more a river than creek in size.  With the rain we have had in the past few weeks, it was running fairly high.  Sturdy bridges provide trail crossings of the creek.  

Hazel Creek from one of the bridges.

Bone Valley got its name in 1877 when an early spring blizzard caught a herd of cattle with no shelter and they froze to death.  Their bones littered the valley for many years, though none are seen now!

The Bone Valley Trail follows Bone Valley Creek for 1.8 miles.  It is an old road that allowed families that lived in the valley access to the road to Proctor, and before the Fontana Lake, the "outside world."  There are no foot logs across the creek, so there are four wet crossings on the trail.

Crossing Bone Valley Creek

A reminder of logging operations: a rail wheel beside the trail.

At the end of the trail stands the Hall Cabin.  Craten Hall settled in Bone Valley in 1877.  The cabin dates to 1892. A half mile beyond the cabin is the Hall family cemetery, where many of the family are buried.

After lunch at the cabin and a visit to the cemetery, we reversed the hike and returned to the boat landing to catch our boat shuttle back across the lake to the marina.  This leads me to the equation in the title: When does 15.3 = 3.6?  When accounting for trails hiked in the Smokies, you only get new trail miles; that is, miles of trails not hiked before.  Since I had already hiked 4.5 miles of the Hazel Creek Trail earlier and the access trail to the boat landing, this hike only netted me 3.6 miles of "new" trail miles:Ollie Cove (0.3), a short section of Lakeshore Trail (0.7), 0.8 new miles on the Hazel Creek Trail, and 1.8 miles (one way) on the Bone Valley Trail.  So, a day's hike of 15.3 miles netted me 3.6 miles of previously un-hiked trails.  Not all days are like that, but when trails like Bone Valley are remote, using previously-hiked trails is the only way to reach them.

But it is not only about the miles you mark in the map.  When you have a beautiful day, trails along rushing streams, wildflowers, and good company, just being on the trail is enough.  Who could ask for more?

A species of orchid.

Charlies Bunion

Charlies Bunion is not found on a foot.  It is a rock outcrop just off the AT about 4 miles north of Newfound Gap in the Great Smoky Mountians National Park.  Three of us were scouting a hike for the Carolina Mountian Club, joining the Friends of the Smokies hike to Charlies Bunion as a part of the scout.  It was raining when we left Newfound Gap, and while the FOTS hikers were deciding if they wanted to begin a hike in the rain, we started north on the AT.  After an hour, the rain lessened, and by the time we reached the Bunion, there were breaks in the clouds and hints of sun.

Charlies Bunion View

Instead of retracing our route back to Newfound Gap on the AT, we returned on three trails: Dry Sluice (upper part), Grassy Branch, and Kephart Prong.  As the afternoon progressed we saw more and more sun.  The trails were wet from the previous days rain, but not difficult to hike.

 Grassy Branch and Kephart Prong Trails both followed streams that grew in volume as we descended in elevation.  With each mile, the sound grew louder.  We crossed Kephart Prong four times on foot logs.

Kephart Prong

The tape: 10.2 miles on 4 trails.

Hiking in the Smokies - May- July 2014

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has over 800 miles of hiking trails.  These trails are located in all areas of the park, with trailheads located off the major roads such as Hwy 441 and Little River Road and in more remote areas like the North Shore of Lake Fontana and the Twentymile area. The longest trail is the AT which runs 71 miles through the park.  I have done some hiking over the years in the Smokies, but recently I began hiking there more.  My goal is to hike all the trails; time will tell!

Using the official Great Smoky Mountain Association trail map and my record of hikes in the Smokies over the years with the Carolina Mountain Club, I discovered I had barely made a dent in the 800 miles, but I had a start.  In May, I hiked to Ramsey Cascades with the Friends of the Smokies (FOTS).

Ramsey Cascades - May 2014

It is an in-and-out hike of 8 miles, so I logged 4 miles for the trail.  There are many trails like this, so an in-and-out hike means you hike twice the miles you get credit for on there map.  It is estimated that most hikers cover many extra miles logging the over 800 actual trail miles.  Some trails are only accessible by hiking in on another trail; one that you may find yourself hiking multiple times to get to a more remote trail junction.

While hiking with the FOTS, I learned of a group of hikers who hike trails in the park on a regular basis.  The Margaret Stevenson Wednesday Hikers schedule one or more hikes each week.  My first hike with them was on June 4 and it was a serious hike that covered part or all of four trails for a total of over 18 miles.  It was a key swap hike, meaning my car was driven by someone else to where I would end the hike and I drove someone else's car to where I began the hike.  We would hike in opposite directions and swap car keys somewhere on the trail.

Start

 We began on the Lead Cove Trail to the Bote Mountain Trail (4.7 miles) to the AT at Spence Field.  A short distance to the Jenkins Ridge Trail for 8.9 miles to Hazel Creek and 4.5 miles to the North Shore of Lake Fontana.  While we were having lunch on Jenkins Ridge, we met the other group of hikers and completed the key swap.

Bote Mountain Trail Junction

 The Hazel Creek trail ended at Lake Fontana where we were picked up by a boat to shuttle us across the lake to Fontana Village Marina.  A boat ride was a nice way to end a long hike, and sure enough, my car was in the marina parking lot.  The logistics for the key swap were all worked out ahead of time by the hike leaders.





Since driving to the Smokies for day hikes takes time, my friend Rich and I camped three days at Cades Cove and hiked trails in the area.  Wednesday afternoon we hiked Rich Mountain Loop-Indian Grave-Crooked Arm trails (9miles); Thursday we hiked 13 miles on Abrams Falls Trail, part of Hannah Mountain Trail, and part of Rabbit Creek Trail.  On Friday we hiked to Gregory Bald on the Gregory Ridge Trail; another in-and-out hike. As the trailhead sign shows it is 5.5 miles to Gregory Bald, but we had to hike back - 11 miles hiked for 5.5 trail miles on the map.  The bald has a plethora of flame azaleas that were in bloom in mid-June.

A week later I was back with the Wednesday hikers for Hemphill Bald-Caldwell Fork-Rough Fork covering 13 miles.  One of the hikers in the group was finishing his map - meaning that hike completed his challenge of hiking all the trails in the park.  Also, two hikers finished their second map - meaning they have hiked all the trails of the Smokies TWICE!  We celebrated with refreshments at the cars.

The next hike was in the Deep Creek area near Bryson City.  We hiked part of the Noland Divide Trail, the Pole Road Creek Trail, and part of the Deep Creek Trail covering a little over 17 miles on those trails.

Two more days of hiking with the Friends of the Smokies in July added a few more miles of trails, including Metcalf Bottoms and the Little Brier Gap Trail on the first day, and Laurel Falls and Cove Mountain Trails on the second day.  The FOTS organized this event with an overnight stay at the Buckhorn Inn in Pittman Center, TN - not far from Gatlinburg.  Janice and I recommend the inn; there are rooms and cottages, and the dinner and breakfast were delicious.

So that covers most of the hikes over the past several weeks.  I hiked over 80 miles of new trail miles, and I can report I have 181miles so far.  I will try to blog individual hikes and not cover as much ground as I did in this report.

The Gospel on the Beach

Each year several of the senior adults from our church spend a week at Myrtle Beach.  During the retreat we have a daily Bible study, have time for shopping, walking on the beach, and eating out. There is great fellowship and always a lot of laughter.  My wife and I have been a part of this lively and young at heart group for the last three years.

Last year while walking on the beach I met an older man walking along with a walking stick.  He was approaching other people walking on the beach and offering them a folded piece of paper titled "Father's Love Letter - An Intimate Message from God to You."  He quietly asks if you want it, and then moves on.  I introduced myself to him and learned his name is Randy.  He has been walking along that stretch of beach almost daily sharing God's love with those he meets. I shared his story with our group the next day during our joys and concerns.

I wondered if I would see Randy again this year as I walked the beach.  Sure enough, yesterday I saw him with his broad hat and walking stick faithfully sharing his message with people he met.  I called his name and told him I had met him this time last year.  He said he remembered me, and he was happy to know that I had shared his story with our group.  He gave me a new copy of the Father's Love Letter.  We parted after sharing God's Blessings with one another.

We meet many people as we journey through this life. Some we remember, and some we forget.  Some people build up, and others seem bent on tearing down.  Randy is one of those people who are about building up; quietly sharing the promise of life - and life abundant.  God Speed, Randy and thank you for your ministry on the beach.

New Year Resolutions

Every year people make resolutions that, if carried through, will improve or enhance their lives.  It is tempting to look back over a year almost completed and see the glass half-full: missed opportunities, regrets, "should haves" and "ought tos" and other times and instances where we have fallen short.  So we look ahead and make a laundry list of resolutions that will address those areas we feel need improvement.

Nothing wrong with making resolutions, however, keeping them is the problem.  In my experience, I find that I make too many resolutions and then have trouble carrying them out.  They are often overly ambitious and difficult to achieve.  Some resolutions are too vague, like "I am going to be a better person."  To me, such a nebulous resolution is easily discarded.

So this year I have decided to make ONE resolution for 2014.  I will keep this resolution before me all year.  It is based on Scripture that you will recognize.

He has shown you, O mortal, what is good.
    And what does the Lord require of you?
To act justly and to love mercy
    and to walk humbly with your God.   

- Micah 6:8 

As a resolution, this speaks to two areas in life that always need attention - how I act toward others and my relationship with God.  Letting Justice and Mercy guide my relationships with others will mean putting others ahead of me and seeking ways to help others.  It entails patience, kindness, generosity, and gentleness.  Walking humbly with God is a self-discipline that requires faithfulness and self-control.

So there it is, my one resolution for 2014.  It looks like I will be busy!

A Season of Thankfulness - November 2013

Thanksgiving has always been important to me. While the we have romanticized Thanksgiving to some extent with Pilgrim stories, the sole purpose of a national day of thanks is just that: to give thanks for our blessings.  In recent years, Thanksgiving has lost ground to Black Friday/Material Christmas excesses.  More and more stores were open on Thanksgiving this year, and sales people missed family time and just time to rest before the madness of Black Friday.

This year I decided to post a daily Thanksgiving thought on Facebook that named one thing I reflected on and gave thanks for.  Many others did similar postings.  It was good to intentionaly reflect on things I am thankful for and name them.  It was a good exercise, and one that should not be confined to one month.  Being thankful should be a way of living each day of our lives.

So I don't lose track of my Season of Thankfulness, I decided to list all of them on this blog.  I can scroll through the archive to remember what a blessed life I have.  Perhaps it will help me remember blessings and not take them for granted.

A Season of Thankfulness: One

Driving home this morning watching the clouds give way to blue sky and sunshine and seeing the vibrant colors of Autumn washed clean from the rain, I was reminded of the beauty of God’s creation that I live in and call home.  Giving thanks for the beauty of our mountains.

A Season of Thankfulness: Two

Giving thanks today for God’s Presence in my life.  I do not need to go to one place like the Temple in Jerusalem to be in God’s Presence.  He is Omnipresent; present everywhere at all times.  What a comfort to know that wherever I go, He walks with me.  “Blessed are those who have learned to acclaim you; who walk in the light of your presence, O Lord” Psalm 89:15

A Season of Thankfulness: Three

Our lesson in Sunday School on the Parable of the Good Samaritan has me reflecting on compassion.  Whether it is the life-saving compassion the Samaritan showed or the “everyday” compassion one extends through a smile, a greeting, or a simple blessing to lift us through our day; I give thanks for the God-given capacity to show compassion, and for the compassion so many have shown toward me.

A Season of Thankfulness: Four

All Saints’ Day was celebrated at church yesterday.  Remembering those who have passed on and the ways many of them helped shape my faith over the years.  Paul wrote of “a great cloud of witnesses” – those who have and continue to walk with us on our journey.  I am thankful for all those who have and who presently give faith encouragement.

A Season of Thankfulness: Five

“Your Word, is a lamp to my feet and a light for my path.” (Ps. 119:105)  Where would we be without the Word of God?  The Word as we have it in the Bible teaches us and guides us through life.  How lost we would be without it!  Giving thanks today for the Word - instruction and wisdom for my life.

A Season of Thankfulness: Six

“Many are the plans in a person’s heart, but it is the Lord’s purpose that prevails.” (Proverbs 19:21)  We like to plan, to be in control, to micro-manage our lives.  But it would be better if we realized that God’s purpose for us far outweighs any plans we try to make for ourselves.  I am thankful for those moments when I understand this.

A Season of Thankfulness: Seven

My Bible concordance has a long list of verses containing the word “joy.” Biblical joy is more than an emotion that comes and goes (think happiness); but rather, it is an attribute that remains at our core and impacts how we live and see the world. Jesus spoke about joy and love together, “…that my joy may be in you and your joy may be complete. My command is this, love each other as I have loved you.” (John 15:11-12) I am thankful for true God-given joy and love I see in others and try to live in my life.

A Season of Thankfulness: Eight

We hope for a lot of things: good weather, that our team wins the game, or even those lottery numbers match. But those hopes are mainly dependent on external influences out of our control. How different the Christian hope that God loves us enough to send His Son to assure us eternal life. So thankful for this assurance He placed in our lives.

A Season of Thankfulness: Nine

“MERCY is God withholding from us what we deserve; GRACE is God giving us what we don’t deserve.”  I don’t know who came up with that quote, but it rings true.  Where would we be without God’s MERCY and GRACE?  Ever thankful for a GRACIOUS and MERCIFUL God.

A Season of Thankfulness: Ten

Our Sunday School lesson today is the Parable of the Prodigal Son, or “The Parable of the Compassionate Father and His Two Lost Sons.” So many lessons in this familiar story. How wonderful that God fully restores us and reconciles us with Him. Thankful for God’s LOVE and RESTORATION.

A Season of Thankfulness: Eleven

Giving thanks this day to all who have served in the armed forces.  My Dad served in the Pacific in World War II as did my father-in-law.  Let us not take for granted the sacrifice and honor brave soldiers have shown in peace and in war.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twelve

Direction in life can come from many sources.  We can allow this world to influence our direction, or we can take direction from our God who knows the plans He has made for us.  Giving thanks that God will continue to “direct my footsteps according to His word” (Psalm 119:133).

A Season of Thankfulness: Thirteen

Thankful that I live in a country that cherishes freedom.  Prayerful that I do not abuse that freedom by using it as an excuse or cover-up for evil (1Peter2:16)  Ever thankful for freedom from sin that can only come through the Lord.

A Season of Thankfulness: Fourteen

Psalm 31 is a plea and acknowledgment of God’s mighty protection.  How often do I take for granted God’s sanctuary and protection?  Giving thanks and reflecting on God’s provision of protection and sanctuary in my life.  “Be my rock of protection, a fortress where I will be safe. You are my rock and my fortress.” (Psalm 31:2-3)

A Season of Thankfulness: Fifteen

Thinking about friendship today and the many true and faithful friends I have in my life.  Ever thankful for friends who listen, share joys and sorrows, and are always there for me.  Remembering too, “What a Friend We Have in Jesus!”

A Season of Thankfulness: Sixteen

Giving thanks for prayer; for the privilege of being able to approach God in prayer, to be honest with God, and knowing that God hears our prayers.  “Do not be anxious about anything, but in prayer and thanksgiving, present your requests to God.” (Philppians4:6)  Keep praying!

A Season of Thankfulness: Seventeen

Truth and truthfulness is a character trait we all strive to consistently demonstrate.  Truth is also a foundation upon which we should build our lives.  Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life.  “If you hold to my teaching, you are really my disciples. Then you will know the truth and the truth will set you free. (John 8:31-32)  Thankful for the Truth.

A Season of Thankfulness: Eighteen

“God is Good…All the Time, All the Time…God is Good.” When we say this in church, it reminds me of the basic goodness of God.  We can BE good, but God IS good -always.  He pronounced each step of His creation “GOOD” and declared His people “VERY GOOD.”  I am thankful for the unwavering goodness of God and for the goodness of people in my life.  “Taste and see that the Lord is good; blessed is the man who takes refuge in him.” (Psalm 34:8)

A Season of Thankfulness: Nineteen

Technology is very useful; the fact that we are using it to communicate right now is evidence of that.  But it seems we are never content with it; we are always after the next new thing, upgrading to a newer, faster device.  Contentment is a rare commodity in this world; indeed being content takes discipline and effort.  I am thankful or those moments when I am content with what I have.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty

The promises of God are true and constant.  From His promises to Abraham and His people to the promise of everlasting life through Christ, God has kept his promise of redemption, reconciling us to Him.  Thankful today and always for our God of promises.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-one

“Forget the former things, do not dwell on the past. See, I am doing a new thing! Do you not perceive it?” (Isaiah 43:18-19)  God wants us to look ahead, to look forward to the possibilities and promises He has for us.  How easy is it to dwell on the past -count our mistakes, relive failures, and harbor “ought’s” and “should haves.”  Each day is a gift from God to seek out that “new thing.”  Giving thanks today for renewal and new things.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-two

“For God did not give us a spirit of timidity, but a spirit of power, of love and of self-discipline.” (2 Timothy 1:7)  What is it that holds us back and keeps us from pressing forward? Often we don’t think we have the strength, power, or the confidence to step out of our comfort zones.  But as Paul reminds us, we have a spirit of power and love.  I am thankful that God supplies the power!

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-three

“Bear with each other and forgive whatever grievances you may have against one another. Forgive as the Lord forgave you.” (Colossians 3:13)  Knowing we are forgiven is a great comfort and reason to give thanks.  We readily accept forgiveness from God. As the verse above reminds us, we are to forgive others as the Lord forgives us.  Thankful for forgiveness and pray that I will forgive others.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-four

I once referred to the people at my church as the congregation.  But as our fellowship deepened and love for each other increased, they are my CHURCH FAMILY.  How thankful I am for these wonderful brothers and sisters with whom I worship, learn from, and grow spiritually.  They are truly family!

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-five

“Peace I leave with you; my peace I give you. I do not give to you as the world gives. Do not let your hearts be troubled and do not be afraid.” (John 14:27)  The Prince of Peace promises us peace – a peace that passes all understanding.  That peace is a peace of the spirit: an untroubled and fearless heart.  I believe we are to work for peace on this earth through justice and mercy, and claiming the peace that only Jesus can give.  Ever thankful for that peace!

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-six

“I can do everything through Him who gives me strength.” (Philippians 4:13)  Call it strength, endurance, or perseverance; we all need a healthy dose to get through busy days.  Physical strength can wane and tiredness can slow me down, but real inner strength is from God and He does not run low. Isaiah tells us that “even youth grow tired and weary, and young men stumble and fall; but those who hope in the Lord will renew their strength.” (40:31)  I am thankful for the days I am soaring with the eagles on God’s strength.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-seven

“Do you want to be counted wise, to build a reputation for wisdom? Here’s what you do: Live well, live wisely, live humbly. It’s the way you live, not the way you talk, that counts.” (James 3:13)  We live in an information age: instant communication, 24/7 news and entertainment, and seemingly perpetual connectivity to the Internet.  While all this informs us and adds to our knowledge – at least that which is true and beneficial – it is not a source of wisdom.  Wisdom comes from God. James tells us to live well and humbly.  He adds: “Real wisdom, God’s wisdom, begins with a holy life and is characterized by getting along with others. It is gentle and reasonable, overflowing with mercy and blessings, not hot one day and cold the next, not two-faced.”(3:17)  I am thankful for God’s provision of wisdom and pray that I seek it from Him and not from the world.

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-eight

When you think if your life does the word “abundant” come to mind?  Not the Black Friday kind of abundance, but a full, abundant life rich in love, faith, and peace.  Sometimes that abundant life seems elusive.  Jesus said,  “I came that they may have life, and have it abundantly.” (John 10:10b).  My sense is that the abundance Jesus speaks of is a QUALITY of life, while the abundance we most often see is based on the QUANTITY of material things.  We gain an abundant life by loving God and loving our neighbor.  May I always be thankful for life, and an abundant life.  Happy Thanksgiving!

A Season of Thankfulness: Twenty-nine

Being thankful has been a focus this month, and now with thanksgiving over, it is tempting to rush headlong into the Christmas season. I look forward to Advent, preparing with anticipation for the Prince of Peace; but I don’t want to let go of intentional counting of blessings.  A thankful heart is a gift. 

A Season of Thankfulness: Thirty

Family nurtures us in our formative years, we build a family in our adult years, and we bask in the love of family in our later years.  I am thankful for family – immediate and extended – that has guided and taught me over the years, has loved me always, and has become more precious to me as the years continue.