2015 Resolutions

I only made one resolution in 2014, and that was to try to live by Micah 6:8.

He has told you, O mortal, what is good;

    and what does the Lord require of you

but to do justice, and to love kindness (mercy),

    and to walk humbly with your God?

The three actions in this verse - doing justice, loving kindness, and walking humbly with God – seemed to me to be what I needed to attend to in my life.  They are three qualities that would go a long way to making the world a better place.  Here is what I wrote about this resolution one year ago:

As a resolution, this speaks to two areas in life that always need attention - how I act toward others and my relationship with God.  Letting Justice and Mercy guide my relationships with others will mean putting others ahead of me and seeking ways to help others.  It entails patience, kindness, generosity, and gentleness.  Walking humbly with God is a self-discipline that requires faithfulness and self-control.

Looking back over 2014, I cannot say I lived up to this resolution every day, but keeping it before me through the year did make me more aware of justice, mercy, and humility.  The headlines of 2014 show that our world cries out for justice, for mercy and kindness, and for humility. 

For 2015, I plan on keeping this same verse as my resolution.  These aren’t things that can be achieved and checked off like so many other resolutions, but rather a way of living that is to be continued. 

I do want to add another element to my 2015 resolutions, and that is Hope.  Two verses come to mind:

Psalm 71:14

But I will hope continually, and will praise you yet more and more.

Romans 12:11-12

Do not lag in zeal, be ardent in spirit, serve the Lord.

Rejoice in hope, be patient in suffering, persevere in prayer.

Biblical hope is not like our personal hopes that are dependent on external forces.  Biblical hope is rooted in God’s promises.   We can live as hopeful people knowing that God’s love for us is steadfast and He will not abandon us.  These verses say two things about hope: that we are to hope continually – never give up on hope – and that we can rejoice in hope through praise and prayer.

Happy New Year to you all!  May 2015 be filled with justice, mercy, humility and hope.

A Pin, A Wire, and A Button

Before I explain the title of this post, I have some pictures and a description of my last Smokies hike with the Margaret Stevenson Wednesday Hikers.  On December 3, over 30 hikers met at the Sugarlands Visitor Center to organize a key swap hike that had at least three variations.  The logistics alone will make your head spin, but organizing everyone in the right cars to the right destination was in Frank's capable hands.  We were soon on our way to Noisy Creek where our group of 15 would take an access trail to the Old Settlers Trail and hike east to the Maddron Bald/Gabes Mountain Trail junction, then on to Cosby Campground on the Gabes Mountain Trail.  At least that was the plan.

The Old Settlers Trail stretches 15.9 miles west-to-east from Greenbrier to the Maddron Bald Trail.  On the map there are no other trail junctions, so a long day hike seemed to be the only way to hike the trail.  One advantage of hiking with this Wednesday group is the trail knowledge of the leaders; like where to access the Old Settlers Trail at Noisy Creek on Hwy. 321 at almost the halfway point on the trail.

After 3/4 mile through the woods along Noisy Creek we came to the Old Settlers Trail.

As the name implies, this trail winds through an area of the Smokies that was heavily settled in the 1800s by families who farmed the land.  There are dozens of stone walls, chimneys, and remnants of homes all along the trail.  To me, the stone walls were an amazing sight.  The walls in this area are higher and longer than walls in other parts of the park.

 This wall was so level along the top and about 3 feet wide.

This wall was about 5 feet high.

How big was this tree when the wall was built? 

The trail went through this wall.

We took a break at the McCarter Barn, restored and recently re-roofed by the Park Service.

A half mile or so from the next trail junction there was a creek crossing that didn't look too difficult. Large rocks separated by rushing sluices of water seemed to afford a way across.  Each hiker began crossing, choosing which rock to hop to next.  It all happened so fast; one moment I was on a rock about to step to another, and the next moment I was in the creek with my right hand hitting hard on a rock.  Several hands had me out of the creek and safely across where I adjusted my glasses that were knocked askew and noticed my thumb was scraped and quite crooked.  

I cannot say enough about the care and concern for me by the group.  My thumb was taped and splinted with a plastic fork, and an icepack was taped and tied on.  A bandana was rigged as a sling to keep my hand elevated, and I was given Aleve for swelling and pain.  I can't name everyone who pitched in to help for fear I will leave someone out.  I thank each and everyone who helped me with my injury and hiking out to a car and driving me to my car so I could go to the ER, and for all the well-wishes along the way.

So, the title of this post.  After X-rays at the ER showing a bone chip, or flake avulsion, and a referral to a hand specialist, I was told I needed surgery to reattach a torn tendon on the top of the first joint of my thumb.  With that surgery I have a pin inserted to keep the joint straight and a wire securing the bone flake and tendon in place with a button on the outside of the thumb holding the wire in place.  The surgery went well, and the pain has been manageable.  My main task is to keep my hand elevated.

With several weeks for everything to heal, I will have plenty of time to plan future hikes in the Smokies.  One of those hikes will be Gabes Mountain Trail that I missed after my fall, and another will be the other half of the Old Settlers Trail.  No matter the trail I find myself on, I will take time to wade the big stream crossings, not rock hop!  

When I do get back on the trail I will be adding miles toward hiking all the trails in the Smokies and raising money for Rotary International's End Polio Now campaign.

Thanks again for everyone's prayers and encouragement.

Cataloochee Divide Tail

Ttailhead at Cove Creek Gap

Many things draw hikers to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Trails to prominent peaks with expansive views, trails along streams punctuated by waterfalls, groves of old growth trees, and historic cabins and houses that remind us of the people who settled the area before the park was established.  I enjoy seeing all these, but probably my favorite draw to the trails in the Smokies are the ridge or divide trails.  Several trails follow long ridges that divide the park into distinct areas or mark the boundary between the park and the "outside world."  These divide trails offer up and down ridge hiking and views on one or both sides of the trail.

On a cool and at first overcast morning, two of us began hiking the Cataloochee Divide Trail from Cove Creek Gap to Double Gap - 6.4 miles according to the trailhead sign.  This divide runs along the park's eastern/southeastern border, separating Jonathan Valley (outside the park) on the south and Cataloochee Valley (inside the park) to the north.  We began a steady climb from the gap and were soon rewarded with views on both sides of the trail.  As we looked out over Jonathan Valley we could see farms, roads, and the infrastructure of rural Haywood County.  In the distance we could see Mt. Pisgah, Cold Mountain, Craggy Dome, Mt. Mitchell and the Black Mountains.  By contrast, on the right we looked across Cataloochee Valley to Mt. Sterling Ridge and further on, Balsam Mountain Ridge.  Several peaks over 6,000 feet lie along this ridge, including Big Cataloochee Mountain.  These high ridges are crowned by dark spruce trees, an indication of their high elevation.

View southeast: Mt. Pisgah is the rounded peak at center on the horizon, Cold Mountain is visible in the distance on the right (just behind the branch).

View Northwest: Mt. Sterling Ridge across Cataloochee Valley.  

Not visible in the pictures are the WLOS TV transmission tower on Mt. Pisgah and the Mt. Sterling lookout tower.  We were able to make out these towers from the ridge.

Because the divide follows the park boundary, houses on private land were seen from the trail.  A fence, built by the CCC in the 1930s, marks the park boundary.  The carport of one house was only a few yards from the trail.

Cataloochee Divide Trail along the fence marking the GSMNP boundary.

An old trail sign just outside the park boundary.

Near Double Gap, the trail skirts a private resort, The Swag.  First, there is Gooseberry Knob, a groomed area with chairs and a gazebo with an impressive view, then the resort buildings and parking lot.  As the name implies the resort lies in a swag between Hemphill Bald and Purchase Knob. 

Gooseberry Knob - part of The Swag resort - waiting for folks to sit and soak up the sun . . . 

. . . and soak up the view.

A mile further is Double Gap and the end of the Cataloochee Divide Trail, but not the end of the Cataloochee Divide.  The Hemphill Bald Trail follows the divide for another four miles or so.  A short steep climb brought us to Hemphill Bald (5,540') and a scenic lunch spot complete with a stone picnic table with a locator map for all the mountains across the vista.  The area is part of Cataloochee Ranch.

Fred Flintstone's picnic table, complete with a peak locator map.

Lunch view #1: A little snow and some skiers at Cataloochee Ski Area.

Lunch view #2: The Plott Balsams - Left is Plott Balsam, center is Mt. Lyn Lowry, right is Waterock Knob; three peaks over 6,000 feet.

After lunch we returned on the same trail to the trail junction with McKee Branch Trail. Going left would take us down to Cataloochee Valley, but we went right to the property of the Appalachian Highlands Science Learning Center at Purchase Knob.  A large home and over 500 acres of land was donated to the GSMNP by the Gilmore and McNeil families.  The house was renovated to serve as the science center.  It is an impressive facility that hosts visiting scientists and provides education programs for teachers and students.

The Appalachian Highlands Science Learning Center.

Also on the grounds is the historic Ferguson Cabin. Built in the 1870s, the cabin is the highest-elevation historic cabin in the Smokies.  Inside the cabin is a placard giving the history of the Ferguson family and the cabin. An interesting side note: funding for the renovation of the cabin was provided by Aurora Foods, Inc. - makers of Log Cabin syrup. How appropriate!

Ferguson Cabin

The gate at the entrance to the Science Center was locked, so our car was about a mile's walk down the a gravel road. It was downhill, so not too bad a way to end the hike.  We ended up hiking 12.3 miles and an elevation gain of 2,740 feet.  A good hike with fabulous views.  This hike is on my "Do Again List" and would make a good CMC hike next fall.

One last picture.  The forest often has unusual and interesting trees.  What do you see in this photo?

It may not show up well in this photo, but to me, it is a reindeer with the Grinch's face.  If you don't see it in the photo, go see it in person on the Cataloochee Divide Trail.

Sugarland Mountain Trail

There are trails of all lengths and descriptions in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Each has its own characteristics depending on elevation, water features, and the area of the park it is located.  For me, there is something special about hiking the longer trails in the park from end-to-end.  Such was the case with Monday's hike, the Sugarland Mountain Trail.  One end of the trail branches off the Appalachian Trail near Mt. Collins, accessed from the Clingmans Dome Road. The other end of the trail is on Little River Road a few miles west of the Sugarlands Visitor Center near Gatlanburg.

As the signs at each end of the trail show, there is not complete agreement on the length of the trail.

Sugarland Mountain Trail sign at the top where it joins the AT. Note the distance to Fighting Creek Gap on Little River Road is 12.1 miles.

Sugarland Mountain Trail sign at the bottom on Little River Road.  It shows 12.0 miles to the AT.

So, I don't know where the extra 0.1 of a mile is. Either way you hike it, you get from Little River Road to the AT!

Like many of the longer trails in the park, the Sugarland Mountian Trail has several distinct characteristics due to the elevation change.  Where the trail begins at the AT, the elevation is 5,900 feet; on Little River Road, the elevation is 2,300 feet.  The trail passes from a spruce-fir forest, then rhododendron and mountain laurel, deciduous hardwoods of poplar, maple and oak, and a mixed forest of pine and hardwoods.  The other great feature of this trail is for several miles it follows a fairly narrow ridge that affords great views of the surrounding mountains.

The heavy snow that fell over a week ago on the high mountains in the Smokies was still evident when we began hiking on the AT and upper Sugarlands.  It was not too slick, and we were able to get decent footing on the trail.

The Appalachian Trail near Mt. Collins.

Sugarland Mountain Trail near the AT.

Sunshine and snow.

Not far down the trail we were able to see the observation tower with its spiral ramp on 6,643 foot Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in the Smokies.  It looked small due to the distance away.  Other views included Mt. LeConte and the long spine of mountains that forms the NC/TN border and carries the Appalachian Trail.

Mt. LeConte from Sugarlands Mountain Trail

At lower elevations we entered an oak-poplar-maple forest.  This Fall has seen a heavy mast crop, and there were lots of acorns on the trail.  At our lunch spot we noticed a cache of acorns in a niche of a tree.  Not sure if a squirrel collected them, or a clever hiker who wanted to provide a conversation starter for passers-by.

A squirrel's cache for winter?

There were several large boulder fields and rocks along the trail.  Plants in the Smokies are able to root in the most unlikely places.  A rhododendron grabbed a tenuous foothold in a rock crevice.

Will it bloom next summer?

As we reached lower elevations the last of this season's color was evident.  Some maples still show yellow and reds, but the oaks seemed to be predominant with their muted red, yellow and brown leaves hanging on.

At the end of some hikes you are more than ready to reach your car.  Today, however, the hike ended before I was ready.  It was such a beautiful day, and the trail had everything that makes for a great hike in the Smokies, that an additional mile or two would have been welcome.  Not to worry though, there are several trails in this area, so I will be visiting this part of the park again, and several miles of the Sugarland Mountain Trail will be hiked.  Many thanks to the Margaret Stevenson Hikers who coordinated this hike and for arranging the key swap to avoid having to shuttle cars.

Little Cataloochee and Long Bunk Trails

The Cook Cabin c. 1856

The Cataloochee area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is known for its many elk and for several historic structures that are maintained by the National Park Service.  The main valley at Cataloochee was settled in the 1830s, however the more isolated Little Cataloochee Valley was settled a generation later beginning in 1854.  Farming and cattle raising were how families earned a living.

This hike was a key swap hike, so two of us hiked from the Cataloochee end and two others hiked from Mt. Sterling Gap end.  We drove each others cars, so my car would be where we ended the hike.  The most important part of a key swap is to meet the hikers coming from the other direction and swap car keys.

To reach Little Cataloochee, we began hiking along Palmer Creek on the Pretty Hollow Trail.  After 0.8 mile we turned off on the Little Cataloochee Trail, climbing up the divide to  Davidson Gap and then descending into Little Cataloochee Valley.  It was evident this valley supported several farms.  Trees all the same size had taken over what was at one time cleared land, and stone walls were seen not far off the trail.

Stone wall near the trail.

About three miles in we came to the Little Cataloochee Church, which back in the day would have been one of the centers of the settlement.

Little Cataloochee Church, 1889

Near the Cook Cabin (see photo at the top of this post) a sizable stone foundation could be seen.  We guessed it was all that was left of a house or barn, but the Hiking Trails of the Smokies guide book identifies it as the remains of an apple house.  Apples were widely grown in Little Cataloochee.

Remains of an apple house.

Farther up the trail we came to the Hannah Cabin, built in 1864.  If you look closely on the porch in the second picture, you will see a hiking companion who joined us here.

Unlike the Cook Cabin, the Hannah Cabin has no windows.

Our hiking companion on the porch.

The Catalochee area of the park is not too far from the park boundary, so during hunting season it is not unusual to see a bear hunter's dog with a radio collar on the trails.  Hunting is not allowed in the national park, but I guess the dogs don't read the "Welcome to GSMNP" signs!  The dog followed us to the junction with the Long Bunk Trail, where we met up with our fellow hikers (and swapped keys) and decided to have lunch.  This became a challenge because as soon as the food came out the dog was all over us - he was hungry!  We stood and ate a few bites as he jumped from one of us to another looking for a handout.  He did pose for a picture.

He stood still for a picture. Almost looks like a statue.

Before ascending the Long Bunk Trail to the Mt. Sterling Trail and our waiting car, we had to hike the last mile of the Little Cataloochee Trail out to the trailhead on NC Hwy 284.  Most people would not hike this mile out to the road unless they had a car parked there.  But when you are hiking ALL the trails in the Smokies, these little pieces of the trails need to be covered.  So we hiked 1 mile out and 1 mile back to complete all 5.1 miles of the Little Cataloochee Trail.  

It rained the first hour of the hike, and the rest of the day we were hiking under overcast skies.  As we climbed higher toward the Mt. Sterling Trail, the fog seemed to descend on us.  While not raining, droplets of water collected and fell on us from the leaves of the trees.  We kept waiting for the sun the forecast promised, but we never saw it.  As we hiked on the temperature dropped and the wind picked up.  When we got to the car at 3:15 it was 45 degrees in a stiff wind.  

While we had no sun and overcast skies, the colors were still bright.  Red, orange, and yellow maples were bright despite the grey skies.  Some leaf-peeping pictures end this post.  The day netted me 10 more new trail miles and my total trail miles has hit 295 - almost 300 miles of the 800+ under my belt!

Two Fall Hikes this Week

This week has been one of the best for Fall hiking - cool crisp mornings and mild days under cerulean skies.  I was able to get in two hikes this week: Wednesday along a section of the Lakeshore Trail, and Friday along Thomas Divide.  The fall colors are nearing their peak at lower elevations, and higher elevations are past peak.

Trail Junction sign at Proctor on Hazel Creek

Wednesday's hike began and ended with a boat ride across Lake Fontana from the Village Marina to the north shore and trailheads a section of the Lakeshore Trail.  We hiked a 12.5 mile section of the trail from Pilkey Creek to Eagle Creek.  The Lakeshore Trail covers more than 30 miles of the north shore of Lake Fontana from Fontana Dam to the tunnel at the end of Lakeview Drive near Bryson City.  Before Fontana Dam impounded the lake, the region was dotted with farms and thriving with lumber mills.  The people were relocated as the rising waters of the lake inundated roads and isolated the area.  Parts of the Lakeshore Trail follow old highway 288 that ran through the region.  Along the trail are remnants of the settlements; stone chimneys, rock walls, a few structures, and abandoned cars.

Our hike took us up and down several ridges that extend into the lake.  The sourwood trees were on display, their bright red leaves shining in the sunlight.

Our hike ended at Campsite 90 near Eagle Creek and the trail junction with the Eagle Creek Trail.  This trail ascends 8.7 miles up to the Appalachian Trial near Spence Field - another hike for another day.  We crossed an impressive old steel bridge across the creek and waited for the boat to pick us up and carry us across the lake to the marina and our cars.

Sturdy bridge across Eagle Creek

Eagle Creek from the Bridge.

Friday, on an equally clear Fall day, three of us hiked on three trails off Highway 441 on the NC side of the park: Kanati Fork Trail, Thomas Divide Trail, and Newton Bald Trail.  Kanati Fork climbs 2,100 feet over 2.9 miles from the Oconoluftee River to Thomas Divide.  It is steep, but well graded.  While we only had a few glimpses of Kanati Fork, we were rewarded with some nice fall colors.

We reached Thomas Divide and followed the ridge for over 4 miles.  We had glimpses of mountain ridges to the north and southwest through the trees.  This trail was the highlight of the day.

Thomas Divide Trail

While on the trail, Rich and I took a moment to celebrate World Polio Day.  Both Rich and I are Rotarians, and Rotary International has an emphasis to end polio worldwide through its End Polio Now campaign.  Polio is all but eliminated, only endemic in a few countries.  Rotary uses the phrase "We are this close" to remind us how close we are to finally eliminating polio.  Here, Rich and I are showing how close we are.

"We are this close" to ending polio.

The Newton Bald Trail was a gradual descent back down to Highway 441 near Smokemont Campground.  As we lost elevation the colors intensified with orange maples, yellow poplars, and red sourwood.

Both days of hiking added 23 miles to the Smokies trail map.  I now have 285 miles completed of the 800+ miles of trails.  Also, I have hiked 47 new trail miles in October, that with my sponsors has raised $164.00 for End Polio Now.