The Asheville Camino

The WNC Chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino is a very active group.  In an effort to create a local example of The Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, a 17-mile route has been established in Asheville - the Asheville Camino.  Today, my wife Janice, my sister Priscilla, and I joined Danny Bernstein, Mark Cobb and Rob in walking the AVL Camino.  In addition to walking the route, Danny was recording turn-by-turn directions so others can follow the route through downtown Asheville and surrounding neighborhoods.  Like the Camino in Spain, not all the AVL Camino is on city streets. As you will see in the description below, part of the route follows greenways and quiet streets through neighborhoods.  Also like the Camino, the route passes by coffee shops, restaurants and other eateries.

First, an overview of the route that begins and ends at the Asheville Visitor Center on Montford Road and I-240.  As the map shows, there are two loops that join to make a meandering 17-mile walk.  The route is relatively flat along and near the French Broad River, but the second loop climbs about 1,000 feet from the area near the hospitals to downtown.  

The AVL Camino makes a large loop south and west of downtown, then returns to downtown via the smaller loop.

From the Visitor Center a one-mile walk down Haywood St. and Clingman Ave. brings you to the River Arts District and views across the French Broad River and the New Belgium Brewery.  Another mile takes you across the French Broad and on the French Broad River Greenway.

Entering the RAD.

New Belgium Brewery across the French Broad River.

Entrance to the greenway.

On the greenway.

The next few miles were along the French Broad River Greenway, partly paved and partly unpaved as we made our way along the river.  The greenway connects two parks, the French Broad River Park and Carrier Park.  As the greenway continues, the park merges with the old Asheville Speedway on Amboy Road.  Near there we found Edna's, a great stop for coffee or tea at about the 4 mile mark.  Like the Camino, places that offer food and drink are popular.

Edna's for coffee. 

Wall art at Edna's.

Memorial to bygone days.

Asheville Camino peregrinos on the French Broad River Greenway.

At mile 6 we reached the end of the greenway and began walking on Hominy Creek Road, passing under the overpasses of I-40, Brevard Road, and I-240.  At Brevard Road there was a good example of older and newer infrastructure.  The Brevard Road overpass was high above an older bridge that once carried traffic over Hominy Creek.  You see both bridges in the photo below.

Older and newer infrasturcture.

The next mile was on the Hominy Creek Greenway along the creek.  This greenway is unpaved and was muddy in places.  At the end of the greenway we climbed along some residential streets in the Malvern Hills neighborhood.  The houses were a mix of older homes and new ones.  Several homes were updated with new facades, siding and trim work.  Another mile brought us to Haywood Road, the main thoroughfare through trendy West Asheville with its shops, restaurants, and coffee shops. It was almost lunchtime, but we pressed on to get back to the River Arts District where we planned to eat.

After 11 miles from the start, we were back in the RAD and ready to eat lunch at White Duck Tacos.  Fish tacos and chips & salsa hit the spot.  

As we finished lunch the rain began to fall.  We got our rain gear and continued on, knowing the biggest climbs were ahead.  Our walk took us by Mission Hospital and then a steep climb up Beaucatcher Mountain.  Downtown Asheville came into view as we neared the top.

City Hall and Buncombe County Building through the trees.

We descended into town and soon were on Pack Square.  Knowing we were within a mile or so of the end we stopped by French Broad Chocolate Lounge for a sweet snack.

Asheville City Hall

Sweet treat.

At mile 16 we reached the Basilica of St. Lawrence, a fitting last stop on the AVL Camino.  The basilica is an architectural gem.  

The Basilica

Short walk brought us back to the visitor center.  The final stats were 16.9 miles, 1,500 ft. of elevation gain and just over 8 hours of walking.  Not bad considering stops for coffee, lunch, and dessert.

The AVL Camino is a good mix of city streets, greenways, and interesting neighborhoods.  Once directions are finalized, it will be another way to see the city and its environs and to get a feel for what it is like to walk the Camino, if only for one day.

Sassafras Mountain - South Carolina's Highpoint

The subtitle for this post is, "It's a hike in South Carolina, how steep can it be?"  
The short answer is, "STEEP, in places!"

The Wednesday hike with the Carolina Mountain Club  was a 9-mile hike to Sassafras Mountain on the Foothills Trail in South Carolina.  The term foothills is a bit deceiving.  While the 76-mile Foothills Trail in North and South Carolina does thread along the foothills, it also climbs up and down the Blue Ridge Escarpment, meaning steep climbs and descents.  Over the 9 miles (4.5 miles in/out) we had an elevation gain of over 2,500 feet, as well as an equal elevation loss.  Like most trails, some of the elevation gain came in steep stretches over a short distance.

The temperature as already in the low 60s when we started the hike at 10:00 and under the bright sun,  and it warmed from there.  Layers came off quickly as we hiked, and soon we were in T-shirts and some in shorts - how unusual for January 18!  After several damp, overcast days, it was good to see the sun.

Blue sky at the trailhead.

4.5 miles to the SC highpoint.

A short way into the hike and the steps began.

Climbing began almost immediately.  The Foothills Trail was in very good shape.  There were no blowdowns to climb over, very little brush along the trail, and the tread was good.  In several places steps aided the steep sections.  The Foothills Trail Conference does a very good job maintaining the trail.

At one point, we climbed a particularly steep section. The picture below was taken from the trail just after a sharp switchback, well above the heads of the hikers below.

Steps on the trail below.

As we climbed, the views began to open up.  Winter hiking allows for views through the trees, and we were treated along the way.

View along the trail.

Boulders off the trail.

After 4.5 miles, we reached the summit of Sassafras Mountain.  At 3,353 feet, it is not as imposing as other state highpoints, but it does provide panoramic views spanning 270 degrees.  The summit had been logged, and there were still logging debris around, and a communication tower gave the area a utilitarian look.  Several rocks provided great seating for lunch and the views to the North, East, and West.

The marker at the summit. We were surprised to see that the NC/SC state line crosses the peak.

View northeast. Can you pick out Mt. Pisgah?  (Sharpest peak just right of center)

View north. Mt. Hardy is tall, rounded peak on left.

 To west we could see large lakes: Lake Jocassee, Lake Keowee, and in the distance, Lake Hartwell.

We returned by the same trail, carefully negotiating all the steep descents and steps.  It was beautiful day to hike in the woods and the clear weather gave us spectacular views from Sassafras Mountain.

Hiking the Asbury Trail

Over a year ago several of us hiked the Cataloochee Divide Trail from Cove Creek Gap to Hemphill Bald.  Upon returning to the car, I noticed a trail and sign across the road from the trailhead.  It wasn't an official GSMNP trail sign, but a hand-lettered sign, "Asbury Trail."  I did some research online and found the trail partly follows the boundary between the GSMNP and National Forest Land, drops down to Cataloochee Creek and then up to Mt. Sterling Gap.  As the name suggests, the trail has a Methodist connection.  Bishop Francis Asbury used the trail in 1810 as he crossed the mountains on his circuit.  The trial was called the Old Cataloochee Trail before taking the name it has today. 

Last Wednesday, five of us decided to hike part of the Asbury Trail starting at Cove Creek Gap.  We waited until all leaves were off the trees to maximize views and to ensure limited undergrowth on the trail.  It was a wet start with mist and fog and the temperature was 37 degrees when we began hiking.  Added to that was a stiff breeze.  Rich, Randy, Beth, Priscilla and I started up the trail noting the yellow blazes along the way. Like the Cataloochee Divide Trail, the Asbury Trail follows the park boundary, often marked by an old fence.  It continues north for about 2 miles, at times on the ridge and sometimes dropping below it.

Asbury Trail along the boundary fence.

Several boundary markers were affixed to trees. This one seems to be slowly eaten by the tree.

The trail had the feel of a Smokies trail even though it is not a park-maintained trial.  It is not on the official trail map, nor is it one of the Smokies 900 trails.  It is used by the Boy Scouts and I assume they are the maintainers of the trail.  A yellow blaze marked the trail, ubiquitously in some stretches and less so in others.  The trail was discernible most of the time, although covered deeply with leaves.  We climbed over, under, through and around many downed trees the entire way, and we cleared many smaller branches and sticks from the trail as we hiked.  Speaking of blazes, on one section we could see five or six blazes in a short stretch (photo below).  We imagined several boy scouts armed with yellow paint being told to "blaze the trail" - which they did!

Count the blazes!

By far the greatest problem with the trail is the sloughing on the downhill side.  It is eroded in places and hiking on the sloping angle made footing dicey in places.  

Along the divide on the park boundary there were a couple faint trails to the right and a dirt road on the Forest Service side.  Occasionally we saw an old gate in the fence.  Also along the way we saw what we thought was a boundary or marker tree fashioned by Native Americans.

 

Gate through the boundary fence.

Closeup of the gate hinge.

Boundary or marker tree?

Due to the fog we missed many views along the ridge.  After two miles we came to the spot where the park boundary continues north and the Asbury Trail goes left and descends to Cataloochee Creek. 

A sign for the trail pointed left. It was bolted on to a post, but the Boy Scouts added a cord lashing to further secure it.  We imagined one of the scouts was practicing knot tying.  Rich added an extra hitch in the two half hitches knot, so we awarded him the Knot Tying Merit Badge.

Rich's knot.

How many two half hitches?

In a gap on the trail we saw a road on one side.  The map indicates it goes down to Sal Patch Gap where Cove Creek Road, Cataloochee Road and NC 284 toward Cosby meet.  At that end a gate closes this road off.  It just seems to end abruptly several feet below the trail.  What it once connected is unclear, unless it was used by people living here before the park.

The road observed from the trail.

It was a steep descent toward Cataloochee Creek, but the sun burned through the fog.  At a side creek we decided to turn back rather than go all the way to Cataloochee Creek. Despite the sun it remained cold and we wanted to climb back up to the divide before eating lunch.  Several steep climbs, each ending with the false hope of reaching the ridge, eventually brought us to the top.  We found a sunny spot with a view for lunch, then retraced our steps along the divide back to Cove Creek Gap. On the return trip we saw the views that were socked in earlier.

Part of the reason for hiking the trail was to scout it for a CMC hike.  With the downed trees and the general condition of the trail we decided not to pursue that idea.  A more rewarding hike on the Cataloochee Divide Trail lies just across the gap from the Asbury Trail.  I do plan to hike the other end of the Asbury Trail from Mt. Sterling Gap to Cataloochee Creek at some point to see that side of the valley, but that is for another day.

We reached the car after 7 miles and over 2,400 ft. of elevation gain; quite a climb for what appeared to be a ridge hike.  It was 38 degrees when we left the trailhead.  

Machu Picchu

Huayna Picchu rises in the background behind the ruins of Machu Picchu.

It is difficult to capture the size and scope of Machu Picchu in a single frame of the camera.  I wanted to get an iconic travel brochure shot that shows the entire area, but I was drawn to the detail shots that presented themselves throughout the site. The above image is my "postcard shot".  Other detail images follow in the blog.

It is also difficult to put into words what you see from the many vantage points of the site.  The overview images may give the impression that the area is small, but one can wander around many distinct regions throughout the site; from temples, rooms of several sizes, broad grassy areas, and steep terraces.  Machu Picchu sits on a fairly narrow ridge with percipitous drops on two sides, the equally steep Huayna Picchu at one end, and the mountain named Machu Picchu at the other end.  In fact, our guides told us that we don't really know the true name of the settlement, the name Machu Picchu is the name of the tall mountain that is close to it.In finding the right words to describe Machu Picchu, Mark Adams in his book, Turn Right at Machu Picchu, chose sublime.  I would have to agree on his word choice.  There is that quality of grandeur and beauty that inspires awe.

There are other facts about Machu Picchu that are surprising, but to me, it is the mystery of the place - what we don't know about it - that makes it fascinating.

Machu Picchu was constructed fairly late in the pre-Columbian era; probably begun in the 1400s and abandoned before the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire in 1532.  There is no evidence that the Spanish ever came upon Machu Picchu.  Why it was abandoned is a mystery, but over the centuries, the forest grew over much of the area.  Yale professor and explorer Hiram Bingham began exploring Peru in 1909-1910, searching for the "Lost City of the Incas."  It was on his 1911 expedition that he came upon the ruins.  His discovery was news to the outside world, but there were Quechua people living and farming at the site.  Yale University and the National Geographic Society got behind subsequent expeditions and the site was reclaimed from the surrounding forest.  Bingham's black and white photographs of the site were featured in the National Geographic Magazine in 1913.  Some before/after excavation pictures of Machu Picchu can be found at this website.  In Machu Picchu, Hiram Bingham did not find the Lost City of the Incas, but rather a lost city of the Incas.

One of the first things you notice about the site is the care taken in planning and preparing the site.  Steep hillsides that would wash away in heavy rains were terraced to give stability and also land to grow food.  These terraces buttressed the hillsides on two sides.  There were also water channels throughout the site carrying water both into and away from the city.  The Inca were master builders.  The walls they constructed were made of cut stone blocks cut precisely to fit together.  They fit so well and tightly that masonry was not necessary.  Note the detail in the picture below.

Note how the center block is cut to fit into surrounding blocks.

Our guides commented several times that the Inca were able to cut with laser precision using only the tools available to them.  How these stones were cut to fit remains a mystery.

A building that dominates is the Temple of the Sun, or Torreon.  This building is built over a cave using a natural rock at its base and cut blocks for the upper walls.  It is lighter in color than other buildings in Machu Picchu and has curved walls while other buildings tend to have right-angle walls.  This temple has two windows that align with the sunrise on the Winter and Summer solstices.  In fact, much of Machu Picchu and other Inca sites are aligned with the sun.  The rising sun would clear the surrounding mountains and its light would shine through one of the temple windows and illuminate the interior.

The Temple of the Sun with its distinctive curved wall.  Note one of the solstice windows.

Staying with the sun theme, another feature of Machu Picchu is the Intiwatana.  The name is derived from two Quechua words; inti meaning 'sun' and wata, 'to tie or hitch up'.  Figuratively it is the 'hitching post of the sun.'    Carved from a single stone block, this feature acts as an astronomical clock.  The center vertical section is carved at a 13 degree angle to match its location of 13 degrees south of the Equator.  The Inca certainly knew the movements of the sun year in and year out.

The intiwatana at Machu Picchu.

There were so many other details pointed out to us as we walked through the site.  I will let the pictures speak for themselves and comment in the captions.

Most of the buildings were without the the thatched roofs, but a few were restored to show how they were tied down.

Both natural or living stone and cut stone were used throughout the site.

Water mirrors carved from stone, probably used for observing the night sky.

Walls and rooms of various sizes.

The Temple of Three Windows in the center background.

Doors and windows have a trapezoidal shape.

Room with a view!

The "Watchman's House" commands the high ground of Machu Picchu.

Our visit to Machu Picchu came at the end of the trek along the Salkantay Trail (see previous blog post).  The site was certainly a highpoint of the trip, or as I described it, "Machu Picchu was the dot on the exclamation point that we the entire trip to Peru."

The Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu

Humantay Mountain in the evening sun from Wayra Lodge.

Machu Picchu has long been a place I wanted to visit, but for me the approach had to be a part of the journey.  Many people hike the Inca Trail, the traditional route to Machu Picchu. Peru permits up to 500 people a day on the trail; to me, that makes for a crowded trail experience.  In looking at guided hikes, I found National Geographic Adventures and its lodge to lodge hike on an alternate trail - the Salkantay Trail.  The route covers 42 miles climbing from around 11,300 feet to a high pass at 15,300 feet and then descending to about 8,000 feet.  The last several miles are located within the conservation area of the Machu Picchu national park.

Our group numbered 10 plus two guides who were with us the whole time leading, describing, and showing us landmarks and features along the trail.  Additional support for the six-day trek was provided by wranglers who carried duffels and supplies by mules and horses and a chef and assistant chef who prepared our meals at the lodges, as well as trail lunches.  Each of us carried a day pack with some water, snacks or lunch, and rain gear, which fortunately was never needed.

Most of our group on the trail.

Our intrepid guides Eddie (left) and Manolo.

After an day and a half of travel, we were met in Cusco, Peru by our guide Manolo and taken to our hotel.  Time for checking in and lunch, then an afternoon walk through the historic center of Cusco.
This was the capital of the Inca Empire, and it still has original walls and structures dating back to the Inca.  The Spanish came in 1532 and the city today bears the Spanish colonial architecture, often built on top of the Inca walls.

Inca era walls below, modern above.

Spanish influences - tile roof and carved balconies.

Cathedral in central Cusco, built 1559-1654.

Photographs were not allowed in the cathedral, but as we walked through it our guide pointed out several ways the Inca artists trained by the Spanish introduced elements of their culture and beliefs into the Spanish Roman Catholic art in the cathedral.  One of the most notable examples was a large painting of the Last Supper with Jesus and his disciples seated around the table, but with a roasted guinea pig as the main dish in the center of the table as well as chicha, a fermented drink made from purple corn!  (see photo below)

Photo: http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/04/c6/8d/51/cusco-cathedral.jpg

There was much more Inca architecture to see in Cusco and Machu Picchu, so I will get to our lodge to lodge hike and mountain views before returning to it.  Just one more note about the Inca.  The term Inca, or Inka as it was spelled in many places in Peru, refers to the leader of the people we refer to as Inca, or of the Incan Empire.  The Quechua are descendants of the indigenous people we refer to as the Inca.

A morning drive along modern and dirt roads brought us to our starting point for the trek.  The trail begins near Mollepata and climbs to the first lodge - Salkantay Lodge at 12,705 feet.  We hiked 8 miles, first steeply then moderately along an irrigation channel to the first lodge.  The payoff of the hike was twofold: our first view of Salkantay Mountain and the comfort of the Salkantay Lodge.

Our first view of Salkantay Mountain from the trail.

Salkantay Lodge, elevation 12,705 feet; the end of the first day's hike.

Upon our arrival at the lodge we were met by staff who took our hiking poles, gave us a warm washcloth to wipe the trail dust from our faces, and handed us a cup of hot tea.  This was repeated at our arrival at each lodge.  We took off our boots before entering the lodge; they were cleaned and ready for us the next day.  This lodge had 12 rooms to accommodate two groups, we stayed two nights here to help us acclimate to the elevation.  The other three lodges had 6 rooms, so we were the only group there, having them entirely to ourselves.  Each lodge had a common sitting area, a dining area, and double-occupancy rooms with private baths.  Each used native stone, wood, and thatched roofs to blend in with the surrounding area.  Pictures of the other lodges follow in this blog post.

Our dinners and breakfasts were prepared by our traveling chefs and served at the dining table.  Bread was served with each meal.  Breakfasts included fresh fruits and yogurt, cheese, and cooked to order eggs.  Dinners were always three courses; a soup, the main entree, and dessert.  The entrees were plated with garnish and flair.  

Dinner one evening.

Chicken on a wheat and barley pilaf.  This is a lunch served on the trail!

Ater a comfortable night of rest, we had an optional hike to a glacial lake at the foot of Humantay Mountain.  Never passing up a hike, I joined four others and our guides to climb to 14,000 feet and the views at the lake.  The pictures show it was worth the effort.  The lake reflected the sky and nearby glacier above it.

First glimpse of the lake.

Reflected colors from the edge of the lake.

The lake from a higher vantage point.

Day three began with breakfast and a hike that would take us to the highest point on the trip, Salkantay Pass at 15,300 feet.  For most of the morning we would have the 20,000 foot Salkantay Mountain in front of us and the long-distance view of the valley behind us.  We climbed along a stream that flowed down into the valley along the trail that was sometimes quite rocky.  The mountains were steep, and varied in vegetation, depending on elevation and sun exposure.  Micro-climates were evident by the vegetation.  But always we climbed, stopping for water, a short rest, and a snack.  Some views from the trail, and then the pass.

The moon above a mountain peak.

Textured landscape along the trail.

Looking down the trail from where we started. You can see the lodge in the background of the picture.

Salkantay rising above the glacial moraine.

At times it seemed you could reach out and touch the glaciers.

The view from Salkantay Pass at 15,300 feet. 

Group photo at the pass with the NGS flag.

Looking back at Salkantay.

Our descent took us to our second lodge - Wayra Lodge at almost 13,000 feet. Another comfortable lodge to rest, relax and eat well and with stunning mountain views.

Wayra Lodge

Humanity Mountain in the morning light.

Days four and five took us from 13,000 feet to 9,000 feet.  We descended from the drier high elevation into the cloud forest.  Not literally in the clouds, this region had more vegetation as we descended and more streams and rivers.  Scrub forest then more lush vegetation and flowers were revealed to us as we descended over the next two days.  It does not receive as much rain as a rain forest, but during the wet season it does receive rainfall.

The trail descending into the cloud forest.

Small stream - one of many in the cloud forest.

Golden Corn flower - resembles an ear of corn.

Colpa Lodge - the third on the trek.

Late lunch at the lodge was a traditional pachamanca - a meal of meat, potatoes, plantains, and beans cooked in the soil over fire-heated rocks.  The meat was wrapped in foil, potatoes were placed on the rocks. Everything was covered with cardboard, a tape, then soil.  After an hour everything was uncovered and served.

Covering the pachamanca with soil.

The pachamanca meal ready to serve.

Santa Teresa River - our trail followed this for miles. 

A high waterfall along the trail. 

One of several bridges we crossed. It is sturdier than it looks.

The beginning of the trail in the Machu Picchu conservation area. It led us through a coffee plantation to our last lodge.

Lucma Lodge - The fourth lodge

 Our last day of hiking was from the lodge at Lucmabamba to the Hydro Station where we met a train to take us to Aguas Calientes, a town close to Machu Picchu.  This segment of the trail climbed to a high point, then descended to the Hydro - a hydroelectric dam.  We had a beautiful valley to look at on the ascent, and then our first glimpse of Machu Picchu across the valley at Llactapata.

Long distance valley view.

First view of Machu Picchu. It is left-center of the picture between the two sharp peaks.

Another valley view approaching the Hydro.

Our last bridge - a shaky suspension bridge.

Our train to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.

 So ended our six-day trek through the Andes Mountains with its stunning views and sights and sounds.  Our adventure continues at Machu Picchu, sunset of the next blog post.