Machu Picchu

Huayna Picchu rises in the background behind the ruins of Machu Picchu.

It is difficult to capture the size and scope of Machu Picchu in a single frame of the camera.  I wanted to get an iconic travel brochure shot that shows the entire area, but I was drawn to the detail shots that presented themselves throughout the site. The above image is my "postcard shot".  Other detail images follow in the blog.

It is also difficult to put into words what you see from the many vantage points of the site.  The overview images may give the impression that the area is small, but one can wander around many distinct regions throughout the site; from temples, rooms of several sizes, broad grassy areas, and steep terraces.  Machu Picchu sits on a fairly narrow ridge with percipitous drops on two sides, the equally steep Huayna Picchu at one end, and the mountain named Machu Picchu at the other end.  In fact, our guides told us that we don't really know the true name of the settlement, the name Machu Picchu is the name of the tall mountain that is close to it.In finding the right words to describe Machu Picchu, Mark Adams in his book, Turn Right at Machu Picchu, chose sublime.  I would have to agree on his word choice.  There is that quality of grandeur and beauty that inspires awe.

There are other facts about Machu Picchu that are surprising, but to me, it is the mystery of the place - what we don't know about it - that makes it fascinating.

Machu Picchu was constructed fairly late in the pre-Columbian era; probably begun in the 1400s and abandoned before the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire in 1532.  There is no evidence that the Spanish ever came upon Machu Picchu.  Why it was abandoned is a mystery, but over the centuries, the forest grew over much of the area.  Yale professor and explorer Hiram Bingham began exploring Peru in 1909-1910, searching for the "Lost City of the Incas."  It was on his 1911 expedition that he came upon the ruins.  His discovery was news to the outside world, but there were Quechua people living and farming at the site.  Yale University and the National Geographic Society got behind subsequent expeditions and the site was reclaimed from the surrounding forest.  Bingham's black and white photographs of the site were featured in the National Geographic Magazine in 1913.  Some before/after excavation pictures of Machu Picchu can be found at this website.  In Machu Picchu, Hiram Bingham did not find the Lost City of the Incas, but rather a lost city of the Incas.

One of the first things you notice about the site is the care taken in planning and preparing the site.  Steep hillsides that would wash away in heavy rains were terraced to give stability and also land to grow food.  These terraces buttressed the hillsides on two sides.  There were also water channels throughout the site carrying water both into and away from the city.  The Inca were master builders.  The walls they constructed were made of cut stone blocks cut precisely to fit together.  They fit so well and tightly that masonry was not necessary.  Note the detail in the picture below.

Note how the center block is cut to fit into surrounding blocks.

Our guides commented several times that the Inca were able to cut with laser precision using only the tools available to them.  How these stones were cut to fit remains a mystery.

A building that dominates is the Temple of the Sun, or Torreon.  This building is built over a cave using a natural rock at its base and cut blocks for the upper walls.  It is lighter in color than other buildings in Machu Picchu and has curved walls while other buildings tend to have right-angle walls.  This temple has two windows that align with the sunrise on the Winter and Summer solstices.  In fact, much of Machu Picchu and other Inca sites are aligned with the sun.  The rising sun would clear the surrounding mountains and its light would shine through one of the temple windows and illuminate the interior.

The Temple of the Sun with its distinctive curved wall.  Note one of the solstice windows.

Staying with the sun theme, another feature of Machu Picchu is the Intiwatana.  The name is derived from two Quechua words; inti meaning 'sun' and wata, 'to tie or hitch up'.  Figuratively it is the 'hitching post of the sun.'    Carved from a single stone block, this feature acts as an astronomical clock.  The center vertical section is carved at a 13 degree angle to match its location of 13 degrees south of the Equator.  The Inca certainly knew the movements of the sun year in and year out.

The intiwatana at Machu Picchu.

There were so many other details pointed out to us as we walked through the site.  I will let the pictures speak for themselves and comment in the captions.

Most of the buildings were without the the thatched roofs, but a few were restored to show how they were tied down.

Both natural or living stone and cut stone were used throughout the site.

Water mirrors carved from stone, probably used for observing the night sky.

Walls and rooms of various sizes.

The Temple of Three Windows in the center background.

Doors and windows have a trapezoidal shape.

Room with a view!

The "Watchman's House" commands the high ground of Machu Picchu.

Our visit to Machu Picchu came at the end of the trek along the Salkantay Trail (see previous blog post).  The site was certainly a highpoint of the trip, or as I described it, "Machu Picchu was the dot on the exclamation point that we the entire trip to Peru."

The Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu

Humantay Mountain in the evening sun from Wayra Lodge.

Machu Picchu has long been a place I wanted to visit, but for me the approach had to be a part of the journey.  Many people hike the Inca Trail, the traditional route to Machu Picchu. Peru permits up to 500 people a day on the trail; to me, that makes for a crowded trail experience.  In looking at guided hikes, I found National Geographic Adventures and its lodge to lodge hike on an alternate trail - the Salkantay Trail.  The route covers 42 miles climbing from around 11,300 feet to a high pass at 15,300 feet and then descending to about 8,000 feet.  The last several miles are located within the conservation area of the Machu Picchu national park.

Our group numbered 10 plus two guides who were with us the whole time leading, describing, and showing us landmarks and features along the trail.  Additional support for the six-day trek was provided by wranglers who carried duffels and supplies by mules and horses and a chef and assistant chef who prepared our meals at the lodges, as well as trail lunches.  Each of us carried a day pack with some water, snacks or lunch, and rain gear, which fortunately was never needed.

Most of our group on the trail.

Our intrepid guides Eddie (left) and Manolo.

After an day and a half of travel, we were met in Cusco, Peru by our guide Manolo and taken to our hotel.  Time for checking in and lunch, then an afternoon walk through the historic center of Cusco.
This was the capital of the Inca Empire, and it still has original walls and structures dating back to the Inca.  The Spanish came in 1532 and the city today bears the Spanish colonial architecture, often built on top of the Inca walls.

Inca era walls below, modern above.

Spanish influences - tile roof and carved balconies.

Cathedral in central Cusco, built 1559-1654.

Photographs were not allowed in the cathedral, but as we walked through it our guide pointed out several ways the Inca artists trained by the Spanish introduced elements of their culture and beliefs into the Spanish Roman Catholic art in the cathedral.  One of the most notable examples was a large painting of the Last Supper with Jesus and his disciples seated around the table, but with a roasted guinea pig as the main dish in the center of the table as well as chicha, a fermented drink made from purple corn!  (see photo below)

Photo: http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/04/c6/8d/51/cusco-cathedral.jpg

There was much more Inca architecture to see in Cusco and Machu Picchu, so I will get to our lodge to lodge hike and mountain views before returning to it.  Just one more note about the Inca.  The term Inca, or Inka as it was spelled in many places in Peru, refers to the leader of the people we refer to as Inca, or of the Incan Empire.  The Quechua are descendants of the indigenous people we refer to as the Inca.

A morning drive along modern and dirt roads brought us to our starting point for the trek.  The trail begins near Mollepata and climbs to the first lodge - Salkantay Lodge at 12,705 feet.  We hiked 8 miles, first steeply then moderately along an irrigation channel to the first lodge.  The payoff of the hike was twofold: our first view of Salkantay Mountain and the comfort of the Salkantay Lodge.

Our first view of Salkantay Mountain from the trail.

Salkantay Lodge, elevation 12,705 feet; the end of the first day's hike.

Upon our arrival at the lodge we were met by staff who took our hiking poles, gave us a warm washcloth to wipe the trail dust from our faces, and handed us a cup of hot tea.  This was repeated at our arrival at each lodge.  We took off our boots before entering the lodge; they were cleaned and ready for us the next day.  This lodge had 12 rooms to accommodate two groups, we stayed two nights here to help us acclimate to the elevation.  The other three lodges had 6 rooms, so we were the only group there, having them entirely to ourselves.  Each lodge had a common sitting area, a dining area, and double-occupancy rooms with private baths.  Each used native stone, wood, and thatched roofs to blend in with the surrounding area.  Pictures of the other lodges follow in this blog post.

Our dinners and breakfasts were prepared by our traveling chefs and served at the dining table.  Bread was served with each meal.  Breakfasts included fresh fruits and yogurt, cheese, and cooked to order eggs.  Dinners were always three courses; a soup, the main entree, and dessert.  The entrees were plated with garnish and flair.  

Dinner one evening.

Chicken on a wheat and barley pilaf.  This is a lunch served on the trail!

Ater a comfortable night of rest, we had an optional hike to a glacial lake at the foot of Humantay Mountain.  Never passing up a hike, I joined four others and our guides to climb to 14,000 feet and the views at the lake.  The pictures show it was worth the effort.  The lake reflected the sky and nearby glacier above it.

First glimpse of the lake.

Reflected colors from the edge of the lake.

The lake from a higher vantage point.

Day three began with breakfast and a hike that would take us to the highest point on the trip, Salkantay Pass at 15,300 feet.  For most of the morning we would have the 20,000 foot Salkantay Mountain in front of us and the long-distance view of the valley behind us.  We climbed along a stream that flowed down into the valley along the trail that was sometimes quite rocky.  The mountains were steep, and varied in vegetation, depending on elevation and sun exposure.  Micro-climates were evident by the vegetation.  But always we climbed, stopping for water, a short rest, and a snack.  Some views from the trail, and then the pass.

The moon above a mountain peak.

Textured landscape along the trail.

Looking down the trail from where we started. You can see the lodge in the background of the picture.

Salkantay rising above the glacial moraine.

At times it seemed you could reach out and touch the glaciers.

The view from Salkantay Pass at 15,300 feet. 

Group photo at the pass with the NGS flag.

Looking back at Salkantay.

Our descent took us to our second lodge - Wayra Lodge at almost 13,000 feet. Another comfortable lodge to rest, relax and eat well and with stunning mountain views.

Wayra Lodge

Humanity Mountain in the morning light.

Days four and five took us from 13,000 feet to 9,000 feet.  We descended from the drier high elevation into the cloud forest.  Not literally in the clouds, this region had more vegetation as we descended and more streams and rivers.  Scrub forest then more lush vegetation and flowers were revealed to us as we descended over the next two days.  It does not receive as much rain as a rain forest, but during the wet season it does receive rainfall.

The trail descending into the cloud forest.

Small stream - one of many in the cloud forest.

Golden Corn flower - resembles an ear of corn.

Colpa Lodge - the third on the trek.

Late lunch at the lodge was a traditional pachamanca - a meal of meat, potatoes, plantains, and beans cooked in the soil over fire-heated rocks.  The meat was wrapped in foil, potatoes were placed on the rocks. Everything was covered with cardboard, a tape, then soil.  After an hour everything was uncovered and served.

Covering the pachamanca with soil.

The pachamanca meal ready to serve.

Santa Teresa River - our trail followed this for miles. 

A high waterfall along the trail. 

One of several bridges we crossed. It is sturdier than it looks.

The beginning of the trail in the Machu Picchu conservation area. It led us through a coffee plantation to our last lodge.

Lucma Lodge - The fourth lodge

 Our last day of hiking was from the lodge at Lucmabamba to the Hydro Station where we met a train to take us to Aguas Calientes, a town close to Machu Picchu.  This segment of the trail climbed to a high point, then descended to the Hydro - a hydroelectric dam.  We had a beautiful valley to look at on the ascent, and then our first glimpse of Machu Picchu across the valley at Llactapata.

Long distance valley view.

First view of Machu Picchu. It is left-center of the picture between the two sharp peaks.

Another valley view approaching the Hydro.

Our last bridge - a shaky suspension bridge.

Our train to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.

 So ended our six-day trek through the Andes Mountains with its stunning views and sights and sounds.  Our adventure continues at Machu Picchu, sunset of the next blog post.